ITA233 Italian Culture Through Fashion

Provides biographical and critical coverage of primarily U.S. designers, milliners, footwear designers, fashion companies and textile houses. Entries include a biographical summary; primary and secondary bibliography that includes articles and exhibition catalogs; and a signed, critical essay written by an expert in the field as well as photographs.

Physical copies:
GN406 .H36 2006 (UTM Library, Robarts Library, St. Michael's College Library, Victoria Pratt Library)

From the journal:
Fashion Theory, vol. 13, no. 4: pages 499-510
DOI: 10.2752/175174109X467503

Fashion is examined through the lenses of the marginal, the minority, and the postcolonial, advancing the concept of time as a metaphor for difference. Fashions created after the invention of the World Wide Web in 1989 are explored through the postmodern concepts of volatility, multiplicity, immediacy, and disposability. While fashion has embraced and benefited from the around-the-clock potentialities of digital capitalism, it has also suffered from its unquenchable functioning. Addressing this negation of time, the book concludes with a section on the future of fashion, which advocates for a slowing down of fashion, and a re-emphasis on the values inherent in its creation and consumption.

From the journal:
Per Leggere vol. 11, no. 21 (2011): 25-44. https://ojs.pensamultimedia.it/index.php/pl/article/view/1282

From the magazine:
Harpers and Queen, March 1985.

Benjamin on Fashion reconstructs and redefines Walter Benjamin's complex, fragmentary and yet influential fashion theory that he developed in the Arcades Project (1927-1940) and beyond, while situating it within the environment from which it emerged - 1930s Parisian couture. -- Provided by publisher.

From the journal:
New Left Review, vol. 116 (1979): 29-50

Dressing Global Bodies addresses the complex politics of dress and fashion from a global perspective spanning four centuries, tying the early global to more contemporary times, to reveal clothing practice as a key cultural phenomenon and mechanism of defining one's identity. This collection of essays explores how garments reflect the hierarchies of value, collective and personal inclinations, religious norms and conversions.

This publication and the exhibition that it accompanies commemorate Versace's unique achievement, placing him for the first time in the realm of the museum and of history. Gone are the super-models, the glitz of the media, and the spectacle of the runways, but the splendor remains in Versace's creations, even when seen as they are in the pages of this book, stripped of their previous accoutrements and elegantly displayed on museum mannequins. -- description provided by publisher

Book chapter from:
The Glamour of Italian Fashion since 1945, edited by Sonnet Stanfill

Directors' foreword / Kaywin Feldman, Brian Ferriso, Susan H. Edwards, Ph.D. -- Introduction / Sonnet Stanfill -- 1. Italy's fashion identity -- 2. Materials of fashion -- 3. Fashion and image -- 4. Italian menswear -- 5. The fashion business

Catalog produced in conjunction with an exhibition held at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Exhibition made possible by the Italian Trade Commission.

The fair and the museum: framing the popular -- Italian cinema, popular? -- The prettiness of Italian cinema -- The pervasiveness of song in Italian cinema --Melodrama as seriousness -- Moving masculinity: incest narratives in Italian sex comedies -- Laughter in Lina Wertmüller's The seduction of Mimì -- Strategies of tension: towards a re-interpretation of Enzo G. Castellari's The big racket and the Italian crime film -- "Il delirio del lungo metraggio: cinema as mass phenomenon in early twentieth tentury Italian cinema -- Dressing the part: "made in Italy" goes to the movies with Lucia Bosé in Chronicle of a love affair -- Hercules versus Hercules: variation and continuation in two generations of heroic masculinity -- On the complexity of cinepanettone -- Cinema and popular preaching: the Italian missionary film and fiamme -- The Italian mondo documentary film.

This is a chapter from the book above:
Popular Italian Cinema, edited by L. Bayman and S. Rigoletto.

Book chapter from the book below this entry:
Film, Fashion, and the 1960s, edited by Louise Wallenberg, Drake Stutesman, and Eugenia Paulicelli, pages 91-111.

Introduction / Eugenia Paulicelli and Louise Wallenberg -- The 1960s: youth, culture, and sexual liberation. Sanitizing the Beatles for revolution: music, film, and fashion in the 1960s and a Hard day's night / Ronald Gregg -- The art of undressing: automation and exposure at the margins of cinema / Amy Herzog -- Pasolini's teorema: the eroticism of the visitor's discarded clothes / Stella Bruzzi -- Rite of passage: the hat that wouldn't disappear in the 1960s / Drake Stutesman -- Cities, nations, and fashion. Fashion apart: Godard and Fageol in 1960s paris / Astrid Soderbergh Widding -- Fashion, film, and rome / Eugenia Paulicelli -- Contexts, contradictions, couture, and clothing: fashion in An American in Paris, Breakfast at Tiffany's, and That touch of mink / Pat Kirkham and Marilyn Cohen -- Gender: modernity and tradition. The fashioning of Julie Christie and the mythologizing of "swinging London": changing images in Sixties Britain / Pamela Church Gibson -- Women in white: femininity and female desire in 1960s Bombay cinema / Anupama Kapse -- Mago's magic: fashioning sexual indifference in Ingmar Bergman's 1960s cinema / Louise Wallenberg -- Single men: sixties aesthetics and vintage style in contemporary cinema / Nick Rees Roberts -- Epilogue. Adriana Berselli: costume for cinema and theater / Eugenia Paulicelli -- Souvenir of a costume designer / Adriana Berselli.

From the journal:
Annali d'italianistica, 2010, Vol.28, p.257-278
https://www.jstor.org/stable/24016397

Chapter from the book:
The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, and Globalization, edited by Eugenia Paulicelli and Hazel Clark.

Part I. Fashion, cinema and Italian identity -- From France to Italy. fashion, modernity and film -- Nationalism: fashion as propaganda in the 1930s -- Part II. Towards the launch of Italian style through cinema, fashion and design -- From neorealism to the launch of Italian fashion (1942-1966) -- Fashion, film and consumption during the economic miracle. -- From Modernism to excess: Antonioni, Fellini and Visconti. Italian filmmakers and their transnational language -- The Italian road to modernity: between crisis, melodrama, comedy and critique -- Part III. From Rome to Milan: the crisis of couture and the launch of Milan Prêt-á-Porter -- Italian fashion brands and foreign movies: Giorgio Armani and American Gigolo, The Untouchables (1968-1980s) -- Film and fashion fostalgia in the new millennium: between the digital revolution, globalization and 'Made in Italy'.

Catalog of an exhibition held Sept. 30, 2001-Jan. 6, 2002 at the National Gallery of Art.
See in particular the chapter:
Victoria Kirkham 'Poetic Ideals of Love and Beauty.'

In October 1499, Isabella d’Este, marchesa of Mantua (1474–1539), wrote her envoy in Venice a letter that she intended to be shown to the French ambassador, Accurse Mainier.² The ambassador was making veiled threats of a visit to Mantua and had sent apologies to Isabella, with a menacing undertone, for having questioned the marchesa’s commitment to Mantua’s alliance with France. Should the ambassador visit her, Isabella reassured Mainier, he would find her dressed all in lilies, her clothing adorned with French fleurs-de-lys.³ The symbolism of Isabella’s attire, asserting her credibility as ‘a good francese’, and dedicated ally of Louis. -- description provided by publisher

This is a chapter from the book "Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe: Fashioning Women" edited by Erin Griffey. Entry is below.

For women at the early modern courts, clothing and jewelry were essential elements in their political arsenal, enabling them to signal their dynastic value, to promote loyalty to their marital court and to advance political agendas. This is the first collection of essays to examine how elite women in early modern Europe marshalled clothing and jewelry for political ends. With essays encompassing women who traversed courts in Denmark, Finland, England, France, Germany, Habsburg Austria, Poland-Lithuania, Italy, Spain and Portugal, the contributions cover a broad range of elite women from different courts and religious backgrounds as well as varying noble ranks. -- Provided by publisher.

Situating dress at the heart of identity formation, Currie traces these codes through an array of sources, including unpublished archival records, surviving garments, portraiture, poetry, and personal correspondence between the Medici and their courtiers. Addressing important themes such as gender, politics, and consumption, Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence sheds fresh light on the sartorial culture of the Florentine court and Italy as a whole -- description provided by publisher

From the journal:
Romance Notes, vol. 50, no. 1 (2010): 35-46
DOI: 10.1353/rmc.2010.0027

The English translation and study of the exchange of two seventeenth-century satires of women's and men's costume and comportment: the Sienese Francesco Buoninsegni's satire of the vanities of women, and the satirical response by the Venetian nun Arcangela Tarabotti, a defense of women and critique of the vanities of men -- Provided by publisher.

Journal info: Critical Inquiry vol. 8, no. 2 (1981): 265-79. https://www.jstor.org/stable/1343163

Book chapter: Robarts Library PR533 .R46 1998

Clothing and dress -- Psychology
Black in literature
Man-woman relationships in literature

From the journal:
Journal of Asia-Pacific Pop Culture 1, no. 1 (June 1, 2016): 1-17.
DOI: 10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.1.0001

These chapter are recommended:
*Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil "Fashion's 'Origins': The Middle Ages to the Renaissance,' pages 19-24.
*Sarah-Grace Heller, "The Birth of Fashion," pages 25-39.
*Alan Hunt 'A Short History of Sumptuary Laws,' pages 43-58
*Giovanni Luigi Fontana, "Made-in-Italy: Between Past and Future," pages 543-45.

Click link for complete list of contents.

From the journal:
Renaissance Quarterly, 2023, vol. 76 (2): 589-644. DOI: 10.1017/rqx.2023.203

Chapter from the book:
Clothing Cutlure, 1350-1650, edited by Catherine Richardson (ebook, 2016).

From the journal:
I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance 17, no. 2 (September 2014): 399-425. DOI: 10.1086/678268

Costume -- History -- 16th century
Fashion -- History -- 16th century

Bathing customs -- Europe -- History -- 17th century
Hygiene -- England -- History -- 17th century
Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 17th century

From the journal:
Fashion Practice 6, no. 2 (2014): DOI: 10.2752/175693814X14035303880597

Fashion -- Italy -- History -- 20th century
Costume -- Italy -- History -- 20th century
Fascism -- Italy -- History -- 20th century

From the journal:
Journal of Modern Italian Studies 20, no. 1 (January 1, 2015): 1-9. DOI: 10.1080/1354571X.2014.973150

The following chapters are recommended:
*CHAPTER 2: The Book of the Courtier and the Discourse on Fasion: Sprezzatura, Gender, 'National Identity.'
*CHAPTER 3: Mapping the World: Dress in Cesare Vecellio's Costume Books (1590, 1598).
*CHAPTER 4: Power, History and Dress in Giacomo Franco's Costume Plates (1610-1614).
*CHAPTER 5: Sister Arcangela Tarabotti: Hair, Wigs and Other Vices.
*CHAPTER 6: La Moda and Its Technologies: Agostino Lampugnani's La Carrozza Da Nolo, Ovvero Del Vestire e Usanze Alla Moda (The Rented Carriage or of Clothing and Fashionable Habits, 1648-1650).

From the journal:
Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture 20, no. 2 (April 3, 2022): 216-30. DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2021.1963163

Costume -- Moral and ethical aspects
Clothing and dress -- Moral and ethical aspects

From the journal:
Journal of Modern Italian Studies 20, no. 1 (January 1, 2015): 83-91. DOI: 10.1080/1354571X.2014.973156

From the journal:
Renaissance Studies, 2009, vol. 23(3): 241-268
DOI: 10.1111/j.1477-4658.2008.00531.x

From the journal:
Open Theology, 2016, no. 2: 785-803. https://doi.org/10.1515/opth-2016-0059

Clothing and dress -- Social aspects -- Europe -- History -- To 1500
Clothing and dress -- Social aspects -- Europe -- History -- 16th century
Clothing and dress -- Social aspects -- Europe -- History -- 17th century

From the journal:
MLN 91, no. 1 (1976): 30-59. https://doi.org/10.2307/2907272

Clothing and dress -- Early works to 1800
Clothing and dress -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500
Clothing and dress -- History -- To 500